Frankfurt Old Town & Römer: A Historic Walk

Anyone who sees Frankfurt am Main at first glance often thinks only of bank towers and the airport. But anyone who follows me, Katharina Vogt, through the streets of my home city knows: the true heart of Frankfurt beats between the Main and the cathedral. The old town is no bigger than a handkerchief, but here history is concentrated as almost nowhere else. This walk leads you to the places emperors and kings saw, but also shows how the city lives today — far from kitsch and nonsense, but with a great deal of heart and historical depth. Pack comfortable shoes; we’re going on a voyage of discovery.

The start: the Römerberg and the city hall

Every walk logically begins at the Römerberg. This square is the city’s flagship, and rightly so. Standing here, you have the skyline behind you and, in front of you, the row of houses seen in almost every picture of Frankfurt. But don’t just look: examine the details. The eastern row of the Römerberg consists of historic half-timbered houses which, to be honest, are reconstructions from the 1980s. The original fell victim to the bombs of the Second World War. Even so, the atmosphere is magical, especially when the sun falls on the red sandstone.

Right in the middle stands the “Römer”. For over 600 years, governing has taken place here — today by the city administration, formerly by the emperors. Enter the courtyard through the magnificent portal. Here you can view the staircase and the Kaisersaal (Emperor’s Hall) for free. In this hall hang the 52 imperial portraits from Frederick Barbarossa to Franz II. It’s a place where you can practically grasp German history. A little insider tip from me: Christmas markets or other events often take place here on the square in front of the Römer. If you want quiet, come early in the morning or in winter on a weekday. Then the square is almost yours alone.

The Kaiserdom St. Bartholomäus

From the Römerberg it’s only a stone’s throw to the Kaiserdom. Go through the arched passage at the Römer, past the historic garden (more on that shortly), and you stand before the mighty structure of red sandstone.

The cathedral is not a cathedral in the canon-law sense but a collegiate church, though for us Frankfurters it’s the Dom. This is where the election and coronation of the Holy Roman emperors took place. As you pass through the iron grille, you feel the vastness of the space. Especially impressive are the high altar and the tomb of Günther XXI of Schwarzburg. If you’re fit, climb the 328 steps up to the viewing platform on the cathedral tower. The ascent costs around €3 to €4 (as of 2026) and is strenuous, but the reward is unique: you look straight onto the roof of the Römer and have a great view over the rooftops of the old town.

The Archaeological Garden and the art hall

Right next to the cathedral, barely noticed by tourists at first glance: the Archaeological Garden. It’s really a permanent building-site state, but a fascinating one. Here, through viewing windows, you can see the foundations of the Carolingian imperial palace. So Frankfurt was already a political centre over 1,200 years ago. Admission is free, and it’s one of the few places where you can see history underground.

Opposite, on the edge of the Römerberg, is the home of the Frankfurter Kunstverein in the historic hall on the Römerberg. This building, an Art Nouveau jewel, was once used as a market hall and is today a place for contemporary art. Even if you don’t want to go into the exhibition, the building’s 1908 architecture is worth a look. Here Frankfurt shows its artistic, cosmopolitan side.

The DomRömer quarter: the new old old town

Go back a little from the cathedral towards the Römer, but turn into the narrow lane “Markt”. Here you enter the youngest piece of Frankfurt history: the DomRömer quarter. Until 1944 this was the densest and oldest residential district in the city. After the war the area lay derelict for decades, and a technical city hall (an office block) later stood here. When it was demolished in the early 2010s, the city dared the seemingly impossible: it rebuilt the old town.

I still remember the debates well. The plans were called “Disneyland” or “architects’ Lego”. Today, after completion in 2018, my picture has changed. Yes, it’s new. Yes, it’s a mix of reconstructions (like the “Haus zum Römer” or the “Goldenes Lämmchen”) and modern buildings that fit into the old street plan. But it’s alive. The lanes are narrow, and squares like the “Hühnermarkt” or the “Berg” invite you to linger. There are no big chains here, but small cafés and studios. A piece of identity has returned. Look out in particular for the “Sachsenhäuser Hof” — one of the few originally preserved half-timbered buildings integrated into the concept.

The Alte Nikolaikirche and the Paulskirche

On the edge of the DomRömer quarter, on the Römerberg, stands the Alte Nikolaikirche (Old St Nicholas Church). It’s smaller than the cathedral but beautiful from outside, with its ninefold-articulated tower. Inside it’s plain, but the acoustics are excellent. It once served as the chapel for the Römer city hall.

If you have a little time, walk on from the Römerberg towards the Paulsplatz (about 5 minutes). The Paulskirche is the birthplace of German democracy. In 1848, the first German national assembly convened here. It too is a post-war reconstruction, but indispensable as a symbol of freedom and parliamentarism. The interior is bright and sober — a deliberate contrast to the baroque churches.

The way to the river: the Eiserner Steg and the riverbank

No visit to the old town is complete without a view of the Main. From the Römerberg you walk along the “Nizza” — that’s what we call the promenade on the southern bank of the Main, which owes this nickname to its mild microclimate.

Your destination is the “Eiserner Steg”. This pedestrian bridge is the landmark of lovers (plenty of love padlocks), but also the most important link between the old town and Sachsenhausen. The bridge was built in 1868 and is Germany’s oldest surviving iron lattice bridge. Simply cross it. In the middle you have the best view of the skyline — that motif everyone looks for on Instagram. Once you’ve crossed the bridge, you’re in the Sachsenhausen district. Turn around once more. The sight of the towers of the cathedral and the Römer against the backdrop of the high-rises is the classic Frankfurt image.

A culinary stop: the Kleinmarkthalle

Back on the old-town side. If you get hungry, avoid the tourist traps right on the Römerberg. Instead, walk 5 minutes up the “Hasengasse” towards Konstablerwache. There you’ll find the “Kleinmarkthalle”. For me it’s the city’s good parlour. Here there’s fresh fish, meat, fruit, vegetables and — very important — wine by the glass and apple wine.

Sit down at the counter at “Schreiber’s” or grab a “green sauce” in the courtyard. The Kleinmarkthalle isn’t a museum; this is where Frankfurters buy their food for the weekend. It’s loud, it smells good and it’s authentic. Lunch here costs you around €10 to €15 — perfect for building up energy for the rest of the day.

Practical tips for your walk

So that your visit runs smoothly, I’ve summarised the most important facts for you:

• Getting there: the old town is car-free and ideal on foot. By S-Bahn (lines S1 to S9) you go to “Taunusanlage” or “Konstablerwache”. From there it’s only a few minutes on foot. The U-Bahn lines U4 and U5 stop right at the “Römer/Dom” station.
• Best time: early in the morning (before 10 a.m.) it’s loveliest and quietest. In high season and at weekends the Römerberg is very busy.
• Duration: for this walk, including small breaks and the climb up the cathedral, allow about 2.5 to 3 hours.
• Admission: entry to the Römer and most churches is free. For the cathedral tower you pay around €3 to €4. Exhibitions in the art hall have an entry fee (prices vary).
• Accessibility: the main paths around the Römerberg are largely accessible. The cathedral tower, unfortunately, is only reachable by stairs.

Conclusion

Frankfurt’s old town is small but perfectly formed. It’s a place of contradictions: here modern reconstructions stand beside originals, here tourist bustle coexists with everyday city life. If you see through the crowds at the Römerberg and explore the little lanes of the DomRömer quarter, you experience Frankfurt at its loveliest. This walk is the perfect start to getting to know the city beyond the skyscrapers. Enjoy your stay in “Mainhattan” — a warm welcome to Frankfurt.